R

Radish.—For an early supply sow on a gentle hotbed under a frame in January, February, and March. For succession sow thinly on a warm and sheltered border early in March. Follow on with sowings in the open till the middle of September. The Black Spanish and China Rose should be sown during August and September for winter use. Lift in November, and store in sand in a cool place. Radishes should be liberally watered in dry weather, and the soil made rich and light some time before sowing commences.

Ragged Robin.—See "Lychnis."

Ragwort.—See "Jacobaea."

Ramondia Pyrenaica.—A pretty dwarf perennial, suitable for moist interstices of rock-work. It should be planted in a slanting position, so that the roots, while absorbing plenty of moisture, will not rot through being continually in stagnant water. Peat soil suits it best. It may be increased by division in spring. If grown from seed it takes two years before flowers are produced. During the height of summer it is in full beauty.

Rampion.—The roots are used in cooking, and also for salads. For winter use sow in April in rows 12 in. apart, covering the seeds lightly with fine mould, and thin out to 4 in. apart. Sow at intervals for a succession.

Ranunculus.—These prefer a good stiff, rather moist, but well-drained loam, enriched with well-rotted cow-dung, and a sunny situation. February is probably the best time for planting, though some prefer to do it in October. Press the tubers (claws downwards) firmly into the soil, placing them 2 or 3 in. deep and 4 or 5 in. apart. Cover them with sand, and then with mould. Water freely in dry weather. Protect during winter with a covering of dry litter, which should be removed in spring before the foliage appears. They flower in May or June. Seeds, selected from the best semi-double varieties, sown early in October and kept growing during the winter, will flower the next season. They may likewise be increased by off-sets and by dividing the root. The claws may be lifted at the end of June and stored in dry sand. The plants are poisonous. Height, 8 in. to 12 in.

Raphiolepis Ovata.—Beautiful evergreen shrubs, producing long spikes of white flowers in June. A compost of loam, peat, and sand is their delight. Cuttings will strike in sand under glass. Height, 4 ft.

Raspberries.—A rich, moist, loamy soil is most suitable for their cultivation. Suckers are drawn by the hand from the old roots any time between October and February, and set in groups of three in rows 6 ft. apart. If taken in October, the young plants may be pruned early in November. It is usual to cut one cane to the length of 3 ft., the second one to 2 ft., and the third to within a few inches of the ground. As soon as the year's crop is gathered, the old bearing shoots are cut clean away, the young canes are drawn closer together, and at the end of August the tops of the tall ones are pinched off. When the leaves have fallen all the suckers are drawn out and the canes pruned (about four being left to each root). The canes are then tied and manure applied. About May they are, if necessary, thinned out again, and the suckers that are exhausting both soil and plant removed. They produce their fruit on one-year-old canes, which wood is of no further use. The general way of training them is by tying the tops together, or by training them in the shape of a fan on a south wall, but perhaps the best way is to tic them about equal distances apart round hoops supported by light sticks. Seed may be separated from the fruit, dried, and sown early in February on a gentle hotbed. Prick off into good rich mould, harden off by the middle of May, and plant in rich soil. Train them and keep down suckers. When they are grown tall pinch off the tops. Red Antwerp, Yellow Antwerp, Prince of Wales, Northumberland Filbasket, Carter's Prolific, and White Magnum Bonum are all good sorts.

Red-hot Poker.—See "Tritoma."

Red Scale.—See "Scale."

Red Spiders.—These troublesome pests which appear in the heat of summer, may be got rid of by constantly syringing the plants attacked, and by occasionally washing the walls, etc., with lime or sulphur.

Retinospora Filifera.—A large-growing, hardy evergreen shrub. It may be grown in any light soil, and increased by seed, or by cuttings planted under glass in the shade. It flowers in May.

Rhamnus (Buckthorn).—Fine evergreen shrubs, of hardy habit and quick growth. They may be grown in any soil, but prefer a sheltered situation, and are very suitable for planting near the sea. R. Latifolius has handsome broad leaves. Some, such as R. Alaternus and R. Catharticus, attain large proportions, the former reaching 30 ft. and the latter 10 ft. in height. They may be propagated by layers or by seed.

Rheum Palmatum.—This species of rhubarb makes an effective plant for the back portion of a border. It does well in rich loam, flowering in June, and is increased by dividing the root. Height, 5 ft.

Rhodanthe (Swan River Everlasting).—These beautiful everlasting flowers are half-hardy annuals and are suitable for beds or ribbons, and make most graceful plants for pot culture, placing four plants in a 5-in. pot. They thrive best in fibrous peat or a rich, light soil, and prefer a warm situation. Used largely for winter bouquets, and are perfect gems for pot culture. A succession of bloom may be obtained by sowings made in August, October, and March. The temperature of the seed-pots should be kept at from 60 to 70 degrees, and the soil kept constantly damp with water of the same heat. After potting the seedlings remove them to a cooler house and keep them near the glass. Those sown in March may be planted in the open in June, where they will flower in autumn. Height, 1 ft.

Rhodochiton—This evergreen climber makes a fine plant for trellis-work. It is more suitable for the greenhouse, though it may be grown in the open in summer. A light, rich, well-drained soil is its delight, and it may be propagated by seed or by cuttings under glass. In the greenhouse it should not be placed near the pipes. July is its time for flowering. Height, 10 ft.

Rhododendrons.—Plant in October in peat, or in a compost of sandy, turfy loam, with a good proportion of decayed leaves and charred refuse. The best position for them is a sheltered one where they can get a moderate amount of sunshine to develop the flower-buds. They like plenty of moisture, but the ground must be well drained. If it is desired to shift their position spring is the best time, the next best being October. They are propagated by layers or seeds, and the small wooded kinds by slips torn off close to the stems, planted in sand, and placed under glass in heat. The seed should be sown early in spring in pans of peat soil, and covered very lightly. Place the pans in a frame, and when the soil becomes dry stand the pans in water nearly up to the rims until the surface is moist. Pot off when strong enough to handle, and keep close in the frame till fresh roots are produced, then harden off. Rhododendrons may, when desired, be transplanted in spring, even after the flower-buds are well advanced, if care be taken not to break the ball of earth round their roots. They bloom at the end of May. Height, 4 ft.

Rhubarb.—Seed may be sown thinly during April in drills 1 ft. apart. Thin out the plants 12 in. from each other, and let them grow on till the following April, then plant them out 4 ft. apart in deeply trenched ground into which a good quantity of well-rotted manure has been worked. Large roots may be divided in autumn or early spring; every portion of the root that has a crown will make a fresh plant. When the last of the crop has been pulled, fork in a dressing of old manure. It may be forced out of doors by covering the ground thickly with stable manure, and placing large flower-pots over the plants to bleach them; but if forced in a frame the light need not be excluded. None but the earliest kinds should be selected for forcing.

Rhubarb, Chilian.—See "Gunnera."

Rhus (Sumach).—Lovely shrubs, growing in any ordinary soil. The young shoots of R. Cotinus are clothed with round leaves which change to bright crimson and orange, surmounted with fluffy pink seed-vessels, while R. Glabra Laciniata resembles a tree fern. They may be propagated either by layers or cuttings. Height, 8 ft. to 10 ft.

Rhynchospermum (Trachelospermum) Jasminoides.—A pretty, evergreen, woody climber for the conservatory, which succeeds best in a compost of light loam and peat; is of easy culture, and readily increased by cuttings. It is a fine plant for rafters or trellis, and produces in July deliciously fragrant white flowers at the ends of the branches. Height, 10 ft.

Ribes (Flowering Currants).—Well-known shrubs, growing in any soil, and flowering early in spring. The colours vary from crimson to white. They may be raised from cuttings either in autumn or early spring. Height, 4 ft.

Richardia Aethiopica.—A fine herbaceous perennial with very bold leaves. It needs a good supply of water, and on dry soils should be planted in trenches. A light, rich mould is best for it, and it should have sufficient sun to ripen the wood. Lift it in September and winter in the greenhouse. It is increased from off-sets from the root, and flowers in March. Height, 2 ft.

Ricinus, or Palma Christi (Castor-oil Plant, etc.).—The foliage of these half-hardy annuals is very ornamental. The plants like a rich soil. Sow the seed early in spring in a slight heat, harden off gradually, and put out at the end of May in a warm, sheltered spot. They may also be propagated by cuttings. Height, 3 ft. to 6 ft.

Robinia.—All these shrubs have fine, Fern-like foliage which changes colour in autumn. The Pea-shaped flowers vary in colour from cream to purple, and while in bloom the plants are very handsome. They grow in any soil, flower in May and onwards, and are increased by layers. Height varies, the Rose Acacia (Hispida) reaching 10 ft., while the Locust Tree (Pseudo-Acacia) grows to the height of 40 ft.

Rock Cress.—See "Arabis."

Rocket (Hesperis).—The hardy perennials like a light, rich soil, and need to be frequently divided. The best time to divide them is just after they have done flowering, when they should be potted off, planting them out again in the spring. The annual and biennial kinds merely require to be sown in the open border. Most of the Rockets give forth greater fragrance towards evening. Their flowering season is June. Height, 1 ft. to 1-1/2 ft.

Rock Rose.—See "Cistus" and "Helianthemum."

Rodgersia Podophylla.—A hardy perennial having immense bronze foliage. It thrives best in a moist, peaty soil; flowers from May to July, and may readily be increased either by seed or division. Height, 3 ft.

Rogiera Gratissima.—A pretty evergreen stove shrub, which is often trained to a single stem so as to form a standard. It succeeds in sandy loam and peat. It may be sunk in the flower-border during the height of summer, but must be taken indoors before frost sets in. Cuttings placed in sand under a hand-glass in heat will strike. It flowers in June. Height, 3 ft.

Romneyi Coulteri.—This grand white-flowered Poppy Tree is quite hardy, and will grow in any light, rich soil. It blooms in August and September, and may be increased by seed or by division. Height, 4 ft.

Rose Campion.—A pretty hardy perennial which may be grown from seed sown in autumn, choosing a sheltered site, or in March in a frame or under a hand-glass, transplanting it in the autumn into a light, rich, loamy soil. Height, 2 ft.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis).—This hardy evergreen shrub should occupy a dry and sheltered position. Its fragrant purple flowers are produced in February. Cuttings of the ripened wood, if planted in spring, will strike root freely. Height, 2 ft.

Roses.—A good, deep, loamy soil, well drained, but which retains a certain amount of moisture, is the most suitable. The position should be sheltered, yet open and exposed to the sun. The latter part of October or November is the most favourable time for planting, but it may be continued with safety until the commencement of March. A fortnight before planting the holes should be dug out 1-1/2 or 2 ft. deep, and plenty of old manure thrown in and trodden down. On this a good layer of fine mould should be placed, so that the roots do not come in contact with the manure. Great care must be taken not to expose the roots to the cold air. When the ground is quite ready for their reception dip the roots in a pail of water, then spread them out carefully on top of the mould, fill in the earth, and tread it firmly. If the plants are standards they require to be firmly staked. Precaution is necessary not to plant too deeply, keeping them as near as possible at the depth at which they were previously grown, in no case exceeding 1 in. above the mark which the earth has left on the stem. Three weeks after planting tread the earth again round the roots. Pruning should be done in March, except in the case of those planted in spring, when the beginning of April will be early enough. Cut away all of the wood that is unripe, or exhausted and dead. Dwarf growers should be cut back to within two or three buds of the previous year's growth, but five or six eyes may be left on those of stronger growth. The majority of climbing and pillar roses do not require to be cut back, it being only necessary to take out the useless wood. In pruning standards aim at producing an equally balanced head, which object is furthered by cutting to buds pointing outwards. At the first sign of frost the delicate Tea and Noisette Roses need to be protected. In the case of standards a covering of bracken fern or straw must be tied round the heads; dwarfs should have the soil drawn up over the crowns, or they may be loosely covered by straw. Apply a top-dressing of farm-yard manure to the beds before the frosts set in, as this will both nourish and protect the roots. Fork it in carefully in the spring. Cow manure is especially valuable for Tea Roses. After the first year of planting most of the artificial manures may, if preferred, be used; but nothing is better than farmyard stuff. If the summer be dry, water freely in the evening. Roses may be propagated by cuttings in the summer or autumn. The slips should be 5 or 6 in. long, of the spring's growth, taken with 1 in. of the previous year's wood attached. A little bottom-heat is beneficial. They may also be increased by grafting or by separating the suckers. Keep a sharp look-out for maggots in the spring, which will generally be found where the leaves are curled up. These must be destroyed by hand-picking. Green fly can be eradicated with tobacco wash. Mildew may be cured by sprinkling the leaves with sulphur while dew is on them.

Rose of Heaven.—See "Viscaria Coeli Rosa."

Rose of Sharon.—See "Hibiscus Syriacus."

Rubus.—See "Blackberries."

Rudbeckia (Cone Flower.)—Hardy annuals yielding yellow flowers in July. They are readily grown from seed sown early in spring, and will grow in any garden soil, but naturally succeed best in deeply-worked, well-manured ground. They may be increased by division in October or November, as well as in spring-time. Height, 3 ft.

Ruscus Aculeatus (Butchers Broom).—A hardy evergreen shrub which thrives in any rich soil, and may be increased by division of the root. Height, 1 ft.

Ruta Graveolens.—This hardy evergreen shrub is a species of Rue. It enjoys a good, rich soil, in which it flowers freely in August. Cuttings may be struck under a hand-glass. Height, 3 ft.

Ruta Patavina (Rue of Padua).—For rock-work this hardy perennial is very useful. It likes a dry yet rich and light soil. At midsummer it produces an abundance of greenish-yellow flowers. It can be raised from seed, or cuttings may be struck under a hand-glass. Height, 6 in.